How to Install the RoofKit on Your Tree Tent: Step-by-Step

Quick answer

Install the RoofKit after your tree tent is already pitched, tensioned, and sitting level, because the roof frame builds on a stable platform. Assemble the poles fully, feed them through the roof sleeve in the correct order, then tension the fly gradually from corner to corner. Confirm your tent generation and pole set before you start, since a Gen 2.0 tent and a Gen 3.0 tent do not take the same pole sections.

A RoofKit turns an open tree tent into a sheltered one, but most failed installations go wrong before the first pole goes in. People start with a slack tent, mix up pole sections, or tension one corner hard while the rest of the frame is still loose. Get the sequence right and the whole thing takes about twenty minutes.

This guide walks through the order that works: confirm compatibility, pitch and level the tent, build the frame, fit the fly, then tension and check. It also covers the spare parts worth having on hand, because a bent pole or a torn rainfly mid-trip is the fastest way to end a good camp.

Before you start: confirm your tent generation and poles

The single biggest cause of a RoofKit that will not sit right is a mismatched pole set. Tentsile poles use 7001 grade aluminium and come in elasticated sections designed for specific tent generations. The catalog states that the spare pole sections fit all Gen 3.0 Tree Tents and most Gen 2.0 Tree Tents, which means the fit is not universal across every older model.

So check your tent generation first, then lay out every pole section and count them against the instructions for your model. If a section is missing or bent, stop and replace it rather than forcing the frame. A pole that is slightly too short will pull the fly out of shape and you will spend the rest of the trip re-tensioning it.

• Lay all pole sections out on a clean groundsheet so you can see what you have before assembly.
• Keep the elasticated cord intact; do not cut or re-thread it to make a section fit.

Pitch and level the tree tent first

The RoofKit sits on top of the tent, so any tilt or slack in the base transfers straight into the roof. Pitch the tree tent as you normally would, then stand back and check that the base is level and the straps are evenly tensioned. If one corner sags, fix that now rather than after the roof is on.

This is also the moment to check your anchor points. The roof adds wind catch area, so trees and straps that were fine for an open tent may need a second look. Re-tighten ratchets, confirm the tree straps are not slipping, and make sure nothing is rubbing against bark.

• A level base is the checkpoint: if the tent floor is visibly tilted, the roof will be too.

Assemble and fit the roof frame

Assemble the pole frame on the ground, feeding the elasticated sections together until each run is complete. Then feed the poles through the roof sleeve in the order your model's instructions specify. Working from the centre outward usually keeps the sleeve from bunching, and it stops one pole from being pushed through at an angle.

Push rather than pull. If a section jams, back it out and check that the joint is aligned instead of forcing it, because 7001 aluminium bends before it snaps and a bent section will never sit straight again. Once all poles are through, connect the frame at the corners so the roof holds its shape.

• Common mistake: assembling the frame on top of the tent instead of on the ground, which risks dropping a section through the mesh.

Attach the fly and tension it gradually

With the frame seated, attach the fly at the corners and along the edges, but leave everything hand-tight. Then work around the roof in stages, adding a little tension at each point in turn. Gradual, even tension is what keeps the fly smooth and stops the frame from twisting.

If you are fitting a replacement fly, the Safari Range rainflies are made from 190D PU-coated polyester and rated for up to 8,000mm hydrostatic head waterproofing, with 3,500hrs of UV protection. That rating only performs as intended when the fly is pitched taut and not pooling water, so take the extra minute to get the tension even.

• Checkpoint: run a hand over the fly. Loose, flapping panels will catch wind and rub against the frame.

Final check and weatherproofing

Walk around the tent and check every attachment point, then re-check the base straps, because adding the roof can shift tension in the tent below. Look for any spot where the fly touches the frame or the mesh, since contact points are where abrasion starts. Adjust guylines or straps until nothing rubs.

Finally, pack a small repair kit with the tent. A ripped rainfly or a hole in the mesh is a ten-minute fix with the right kit and a trip-ending problem without one. Repair kits are model-specific, so pick the one that matches your tent when you order.

• Re-tension the base after the roof is on, then leave the setup to settle for a few minutes before you call it done.

RoofKit installation steps at a glance

1. 1. Confirm compatibility: Identify your tent generation and check that your pole sections match it. The catalog notes spare poles fit all Gen 3.0 Tree Tents and most Gen 2.0 Tree Tents, so older models need checking. Checkpoint: every pole section present, straight, and matched to your model before you start.
2. 2. Pitch and level the tent: Set up the tree tent as normal, then confirm the base is level and the straps are evenly tensioned. Re-check your tree anchors, since the roof adds wind catch area. Checkpoint: a visibly tilted floor means the roof will sit crooked too.
3. 3. Build the frame on the ground: Join the elasticated pole sections into complete runs, then feed them through the roof sleeve in the order your model specifies, working from the centre outward. Common mistake: forcing a jammed section. Back it out and realign instead of bending 7001 aluminium.
4. 4. Fit the fly and tension gradually: Attach the fly at all points hand-tight, then work around the roof adding a little tension at each point in turn until the fly is smooth and taut. Checkpoint: no loose panels and no water-pooling dips in the fly.
5. 5. Final check and pack spares: Re-check base straps after the roof is on, look for any fly-on-frame contact points, and pack a model-specific repair kit with the tent. Next step: if anything is torn or bent, replace it before your next trip rather than mid-camp.

Parts and spares that make installation easier

• Spare Tent Poles & Sections: All Tentsile poles use 7001 grade aluminium, are lightweight, and come in sections connected by elasticated cord to fit all Gen 3.0 Tree Tents and most Gen 2.0 Tree Tents. If a section is bent or missing, the roof frame will not sit straight. Ordering the correct section for your generation is faster and cheaper than replacing the whole pole set.
• Spare Rainfly for Safari Connect 2-Person Tree Tent: Safari Range rainflies are made from 190D PU-coated polyester and offer up to 8,000mm hydrostatic head waterproofing, rated for 3,500hrs of UV protection. A taut, undamaged fly is what delivers that waterproofing. If your existing fly is torn or the coating has worn through, a replacement restores the protection the RoofKit is meant to provide.
• Repair & Replacement Kits: Repair kits are available for different models and cover rips in a rainfly, holes in a tent, and broken poles. Small damage is common during installation and packing. Carrying the right kit for your model means a puncture or tear does not end the trip.

Install the RoofKit on a level, properly tensioned tent, build the frame on the ground, and tighten the fly in stages. Do those three things and the roof will sit straight, shed water, and stay put through wind. Keep a spare pole section and the right repair kit with the tent, and a small mishap will never cost you a night outdoors.